Update for everyone!

Sorry, yet again I've been to busy to post the next part in our series. Hopefully after the holidays I will have a change to write part 4.

See you then!

Module Construction 101: Part 3 – Material Preparation

Part 3 – Material Preparation
In this session, we'll discuss:

• Material Preparation – All of the cuts, holes and measurements that you’ll need.

Material Preparation
Now that you have all of your basic materials to build the module, let’s discuss what to do with them. I will first give you the material, a quantity and/or measurement of each part needed, then describe how you should make any cuts or where to drill holes. In the sections “Holes To Be Drilled”, please refer to the diagram below the descriptions. Hole locations will be marked to correspond with the Hole Set number.

·         Birch Plywood Cuts: 2 - 6”x48”x0.75”, 4 - 6”x22.5”x0.75”, 2 - 4”x22.5”x0.75”, 4 – 3.125”x1.5”x0.75”, 4 – 3.125”x2.125”x0.75”
If you picked up the 4’x4’ panel, here is how you need to cut it. First, lay out your first line 6” from the edge, along one of the 4’ lengths of the panel. This will be for the sides of your frame. You’ll want to make a line at 6”, then cut, make a second line at 6” and then cut. This way you’re sure to have 6” wide sides and not lose 0.125” (1/8”) because of the kerf of your saw blade. Now you should have two pieces that measure 6”x48”x0.75”.

o   Holes to be drilled: All holes are about 1/8” for typical general purpose drywall screws.
Hole Set 1: Lay out 3 vertical holes on each end starting from the top at 1”, 3” and 5” and 3/8” from the end. Do this for both side rails. These holes will be for attaching the module end plates.

Hole Set 2: You need to lay out points for horizontal holes for the end supports. These holes will start at 2 3/8” from the top and three holes at 1¾”, 3¾”, and 5¾” from the end.

Hole Set 3: For the leg pockets, we need to drill 2 vertical holes on each end, 2 5/8” from the ends, 3 3/4” and 5 3/4” from the top.

Hole Set 4: Last are two sets of 2 holes for the center supports on each side rail. These holes are vertical. Measure 16” from the ends and draw a vertical line starting at 2” from the top. Then mark the holes at 3” and 5”.

Now you have your sides cut and drilled, time to cut the ends and end supports. Lay out one line 6” from the edge for your next cut. Cut along the line to give you one more 6”x48”x3/4” piece. With this part, you’ll want to cut it in half, minus 1.5”, giving you a 6”x22.5”x0.75” piece. Do this with the other half as well. Repeat this step a second time so that you end up with four 6”x22.5”x0.75” pieces.

We will now cut your center supports. Along the 48” side, on the factory edge, mark a line 4” from the edge and cut, giving you one 4”x48”x0.75” length of wood. Like the ends you just made, cut this in half minus 1.5” as well and cut 1.5” off of the other half. You should have two sections that measure 4”x22.5”x0.75”.

Lastly, we need to cut some small rectangular pieces for the leg pockets. Continue with this step if you decide not to use some method to have the legs fold underneath the module. With your left over part of the panel, you will need to cut out four 3.125”x1.5”x0.75” pieces and four 3.125”x2.125”x0.75” pieces. This will give you one of each for each corner.

Keep the scraps you have left over because we may use them for extra support in the future.

·         Cutting the Legs and Cross Braces: 4 – 1.5”x1.5”x your desired length, 2 – ½”x2”22 ½”.
Let’s move on to preparing our legs. This step will be pretty simple and won’t take much time at all.

If you purchased a 2”x4”x8’ to make your legs, here is how you cut it down. To start, since most modules are only 30” to 50” to the top of the rail head, you can start by cutting the 2x4 in half at 48”. Then rip the two pieces down the middle, at 1 ½”. After you make your cuts, you will have 4 legs. You should be left with a couple strips ½”x1½”x48”. Keep these as you will be able to use them for bracing or support on your module.

If you purchased two 1½”x1½”x8’ furring strips, then  you will simply cut the strips in half at first or to a length that will work for your desired module height.

The final length of your legs is determined by your modular organizations standards. But, as a simple rule to cut your legs, you’ll want to take your rail height and subtract the 2” for foam board thickness, ½”+/- for track and roadbed thickness (depends on brand of track and roadbed), ¾” for the horizontal end bracing, and about ½” for leveler height adjustment. So for example, if you are building to Free-mo standards of 50” rail height, you will cut your legs to 46¼”.

The cross braces are cut from 36” grade stakes. This is a simple cut, really. From the straight end, measure 22 ½” and cut the pointed end off.

o   Holes to be drilled:
The holes to be drilled in the legs are simple. Your first hole is to be drilled in the end of the leg directly in the center, 3/8”x2¼” . This hole will be for a ¼”-20 T-nut and either a 2”x¼”-20 carriage bolt, or a rubber table leg adjuster with the same thread and as close to the same length as possible.

Your second hole to be drilled will be a ¼” hole 10” from the bottom of the leg for a cross brace.

And finally, you’ll want to drill a ¼” hole in the cross braces at ¾” from each end.

·         Cutting the Foam Board:
Your foam board probably came as a 4’x8’ sheet, so it will need to be cut to fit your frame. When cutting your foam, keep in mind the ¾” you need to allow for on all 4 sides. Your module frame outside dimensions will be 24”x48”, so you will need to cut your foam to 22½”x46½” so it will fit snugly inside the frame and will rest on top of the end support braces we cut in the beginning.

This about covers all of your cuts and holes you need to drill. I’ve tried to be as specific as possible in my directions, but if you have a question, please post a comment here or email me and I will help you along.

In the next session, we will get to the good part, assembly. If all of your parts are cut to the correct dimensions and all of your holes are drilled in the correct locations, you should have your module assembled in about 30-45 minutes or less.

Good luck with your cuts and drilling. Happy modeling!

John

Live Steam

A few weeks ago, there was an ad in the newspaper for an auction. And in this auction, they were selling a 1/5 scale locomotive and NCR (National Cash Register) train replica. You know, the size you can ride. Now, I have not seen this equipment, and I didn't make it to the auction, although I sure wish I did. But it got me thinking, we have about 3 to 3.5 unused acres here, how cool it would be to build a 7 1/4" gauge railroad.

Now, our land rises from about the middle to 5-10 feet to the north side and we have a 1/4 acre worth of pond on the west side in the middle. So I think I have a challenge developing a track plan. But if money were no object I would love to build something. With the track itself at about $5 a foot for rails, ties and hardware, I would estimate the cost being somewhere around $25,000 for what I would want.

If I do get a chance to build something, I will be sure to post some how-tos about it. First, I need to design a track plan, which will take a lot more work than a typical layout for HO scale. So, after I finish the module building series, you may see a few posts on at least ideas I have.

Only time will tell.

Dayton Train Show 2009 - Nov. 7-8

Excerpt from DTS website:

The 2009 Dayton Train Show is is not far off, and you'll love what we have planned for you this year!
As of last year, Dayton now hosts the biggest train show in Ohio! The dealer floor is nearly sold out, and your favorite dealers from years past, as well as a few newcomers will be in Dayton in 2009. There will be about 360 tables of old and new trains in all scales - you're sure to find what you want.
If you"re looking to sell your old trains, many dealers purchase train collections.

Check the website for all of the details!

My family and I will be at the show, not sure which day though. See you there!

Working on next update

I'm still writing the next installment for the module building series. I've just been busy with a house painting job, family events and a friends wedding last week. But I should have something posted within a week or so.

Update for everyone!

Sorry I haven't posted more on module building. I've been pretty busy lately, but I will have another post soon.

Thank you to those who are following along!

John

Module Construction 101: Part 2 – Materials & Tools

Part 2 – Materials & Tools
In this session, we'll discuss:

• A note on construction methods.
• Material selection – What’s best in quality and value, and where to buy.
• Tools you’ll need to build the module.

Construction Methods
If you’ve been keeping up to date with Free-mo and peoples construction methods, I’m sure you’ll notice that for every 5-10 people you ask how they built theirs, you’ll get 5-10 different methods. In these articles I will be posting my method which may be one you’ve seen before, or a combination of different ones put together. My goal here is not to tell you my way is the best, but only to show you yet another way to approach module construction.

Some methods may seem like overkill, but you have to remember, these modules are built to be moved around a lot and need to be pretty tough. I have to say though, there are things I wish I had done differently or would have been able to afford. At the time that I built my modules, I was in school full-time and had very little income, so I used lower quality materials and some experimental methods for my legs. My current modules may not have seen many operating sessions, but they have been moved around a lot in the last 4 years.

Where to Buy Materials
It is time to buy your materials for your new Free-mo module project, but you’re not sure where to go for selection and price. First, you can look at your big box stores. They usually have everything you’ll need to build a basic module. Or, if you have a local, independently owned lumber yard, they are a great source for your wood, but not so much for hardware a lot of times. Also, check your neighborhood hardware stores. Now, not a lot of them will carry a large selection of lumber, but they are a great source for your hardware. If you’re a seasoned handyman or DIY’er, you’ll probably already know these things.

What to Buy
The following is a good starting list for your materials. I have tried to include the item, average price, and store where purchased. You may find that prices differ by location, as well as selection, but what’s important are the actual items to buy.

1. 1 - 4’x4’x3/4” Birch plywood panel - No need to get a full 4’x8’ sheet for one module. - $25.00 at Lowe’s or Home Depot. But if a 4'x8' sheet is all you can find, it will run you about $35.00-$40.00.

2. 1 - 4’x8’x2” blue or pink foam insulation board – Sorry, but all I find are full sheets, so if you have some friends building modules too, maybe have them chip in and split the cost. - $25.00 at Home Depot.

3. 2 - 2”x2”x8’ furring strips or 1 - 2”x4”x8 – You’ll need these for the legs of each module you build. I’ll explain more later.- $3.00 at Lowe’s.

4. 2 - ½”x2”x36” Grade Stake or similar material – The only way I have found these are in bundles of 25, but some stores may have them individually. - $10.00 at Lowe’s.

5. 8 - ¼”-20x2.5” Carriage bolts - $0.05 each at Lowe’s. – You can get these individually or in a bulk pack.

6. 4 – ¼”-20 wing nuts - $0.15 each at Lowe’s. – You can get these individually or in a bulk pack.

7. 4 – ¼” flat washers - $0.05 each at Lowe’s. – You can get these individually or in a bulk pack.

8. 4 – ¼”-20 Blind Nut - $0.10 each at Lowe’s. – You will probably only find these in a 2 pack, but a hardware store may have them individually.

9. 1lb. box – 1 ¼” #6 General Purpose Drywall Screws – A 1 pound box is suggested because you may want to use more than I’m recommending. - $6.00 at Lowe’s, Home Depot, or a hardware store.

The Tools You Need
I know that most of you will have just about everything you need to build a module, especially if you’ve built any previous layouts. But, for those of you that are new to the hobby and my not know, or have, the tools needed to build a module, I have created a basic list of tools for you. Use this list to get the tools from the store, your workshop, or borrow from a friend. One thing to remember though, when it comes to tools, you get what you pay for, so try to buy the best quality your budget will allow. This is especially true if you plan on building more than one module, or have other DIY projects to do.

· Measuring Tape – Try to pick up at least a 12’ tape, like one that’s pocket size or even a key chain style. That’s really about all you’ll need, unless you plan on completing other projects that require something more in the 30’ range.

· Pencil – A good pencil will be needed to mark your measurements. You could also use a Sharpie, but you can’t erase a mistake with one of those.

· Speed Square or Framing Square – You’ll need one to make sure your lines and framework are square.

· Straight Edge – Find something at least 4 to 4 ½’ long that is as close to perfectly straight as you can. I use a T square most drywallers use, but you can use a good 2”x4” or maybe a piece of pipe. Just make sure it’s straight. An alternative would be to use a chalk line and snap a line between your marks.

· Circular saw – You will be using this for cutting your frame sections primarily, but it can be used to cut everything else.

· Miter Saw – You will use a miter saw to cut the legs and leg bracing to size. As mentioned, you can use a circular saw to cut these, but a miter saw may make it easier. A small 10” saw will do the job.

· Drill – Electric or cordless, it doesn’t matter, as long as you are able to use various bits in it. For about $50 you can get a Black & Decker combo kit at Wal-Mart and it has an 18 volt drill, flashlight and sometimes a stud finder. Always look for combo kits in any tool you buy. It might be cheaper in the long run for a quality tool with extras.

· Drill Bits and Screwdriver Bits – Primarily in this series you’ll be using a ¼” drill bit and a #2 Phillips screw bit, but you might want to find a decent size set for future projects.

· Table Saw – This isn’t required, but nice to use for ripping panels or sticks of lumber down to size. For some projects, this can be used instead of a circular saw and get the same or better results. They have good quality name brand saws everywhere for around $100 or more. Always look for a sale.

· Saw Horses – This can be as simple as a couple pairs of $5.00 brackets that screw to 2x4’s or as elaborate as some $60 Stanley Fat Max horses. I do a lot of construction work, so I bought the Stanley units. They are very durable with height adjustable legs, storage and places to hold lumber or pipe on the top.

· Extension Cord – They never make the cords on tools long enough, if they aren’t cordless, so pick up about a 10’ cord, or be safe with a 25’ cord.

That should be it for the tools you will need. If I think of anything else I will either update this article or add a note when the time comes.

Next Article
For our next installment, we will talk about preparing our materials. This is going to be the focus of the article and pretty much all it will entail. I might move on to assembly as well, but I don’t want to overwhelm anyone only 3 articles into the series.

Until next time, happy modeling!

John McManaman

Module Construction 101: Part 1 - Planning Your Module

Part 1 - Planning Your Module
In this session, we'll discuss:

• Thinking about what you want to build
• What prototype you want to follow
• You scenes location, season and era
• The module we will build in this series.
  

Creative Juices Are Flowing
So you've done your research on the internet, visited operating sessions of your local model railroad group and have been to dozens of train shows to figure out what kind of layout you want to build next, and you've decided on a Free-mo module, or module set. Well, welcome to the wonderful world of Free-mo!

As you probably know by now, Free-mo is the North American adaptation to the European Fremo style of modular model railroading. It gives you much more flexibility in your module design, more freedom for a prototypical track plan and gets away from typical oval or looped modular layouts you see. Free-mo is still relatively new here, so it's up to people like you to get involved, build some modules, have operating sessions and spread the word. But, while you do that, you should build yourself a module, or even a set.

Decision Time
So, what DO you want to build? One of the many questions you should ask when planning your module(s). Other questions include where is your module's scene going to be located, what is your prototype or do you feel better freelancing, what era is it set in, what time of the year, what's the terrain like, and more. Those are the most important questions to ask yourself. Some folks like a scene with a simple stretch of mainline through the countryside, while others like a set of modules depicting a mid-50's industrial area with lots of switching maneuvers.

One thing about connecting with other Free-mo modules you must remember though is that you should try to keep the scenery as close to what others have. Like avoiding a mid winter snowfall in the woods connected to an early summer field of corn. But if you are building your modules to only be set up in your home, then this wont be much of an issue.

Our Modules
For this series of articles, let's set the scene, only as a guideline, to help you envision what you want to build. So, we'll keep it simple. Let's say we like the rolling plains of the midwest, like Indiana, Illinois, or the western parts of Ohio, and your favorite time of year is the spring. You don't have tons of free space for a whole set of modules, so you choose to build just one 2'x4' module. This is a simple size, easy to work with and can be easily expanded in the future. And the significant other probably wont have a problem with you taking up 8 square feet in a spare room, basement, garage, or family room. That last one might be a stretch. Also, the module I'll be writing about may only cost around $200.00 or less, depending on where you find your materials.

Next Article
For the next article, we will discuss material selection, where to buy, and getting set up for construction. So, come back in a few days, or maybe sooner if I can't sleep, and we'll move on to part 2.

Until then, happy modeling!

Dayton, OH Passenger Railroading

Dayton, Ohio has always been a major hub for many railroads of the eastern half of the country. B&O, C&O, New York Central, Penn Central, the “Big Four” Cleveland, Cincinnati, Chicago and St. Louis Railway and other short lines that were later absorbed by the bigger railroads through mergers. Our area is also very diverse in the industries that used the railroads in the past and present. Local industries include automotive, paper, steel processing, meat processing, and lumber. One aspect of the railroad that is greatly missed is passenger service.

In downtown Dayton, there used to be a major passenger train stop. This station was called Union Station and was opened in 1900. The tracks serving the station used to run at ground level until they were elevated in 1931. Many major railroads used the original station until the mid 1960’s when it was torn down to extend a street and a replacement structure was built. In 1971 Amtrak was the last railroad to serve Dayton with only one train running, the National Limited, trains 30 and 31. In 1979, the National Limited was discontinued and passenger service to the city ended shortly after. The replacement station was left unused until 1987 when it was torn down. Now, the location of the station that had 10 tracks, only 2 remain serving CSX and the Norfolk Southern, and it is also a parking lot for Sinclair Community College, building 13.

Over the years, there have been many plans and discussions to bring passenger service back to Dayton, but it has been just that, talk. With the current economy in the situation that it is, I believe it would be many more years before we see any passenger trains returning to Dayton.

Cameron Bailee Is Here!

She's here! Cameron Bailee was born on July 6th, 2009 at 9:42am. 7lbs. 13oz. and 21 1/2" long. We are very excited to have her home now. She'll be 2 weeks old tomorrow. I haven't been on a good sleep pattern since I want to let my wife get as much rest as possible, and I've stayed up all night with the baby, watching her sleep.

Carter is excited to have his baby sister here too. He always wants to hug and kiss her. He's doing very well for a 2 year old. But the last week or so, he's been sick with a virus, so we've had to keep them separated.

No new progress, still.

Well, it's been about 5-6 months since my last post, and I have to say that there has been no new progress. I've gotten as far as making a few rock castings, but have not put them on my modules.

Honestly, I'm considering "disbanding" the group until I have more time to dedicate to it, or find someone else to get things going. I have just had so much to do for the last couple years that I don't have much spare time to invest in my hobbies. My modules are put away, my truck hasn't seen the road since we moved into our house in '07, and my wife and I haven't been able to get our son's scrapbook going until now. We intended to start it when he was born, he's now 2.

For baby news, our daughter will be here around July 12th and we are very excited! Her name is Cameron Bailee, named after Ashley's mom and dad. Cameron is her dads middle name and Bailee is a mix of Brian and Eileen.

Work has been slow, but steady so far, which is great. I never really heard from CSX or NS other than telling me they stopped looking for people for now because of the economy.



So, there's the news for now. Until next time, keep the wheels on the rails.