Module Construction 101: Part 2 – Materials & Tools

Part 2 – Materials & Tools
In this session, we'll discuss:

• A note on construction methods.
• Material selection – What’s best in quality and value, and where to buy.
• Tools you’ll need to build the module.

Construction Methods
If you’ve been keeping up to date with Free-mo and peoples construction methods, I’m sure you’ll notice that for every 5-10 people you ask how they built theirs, you’ll get 5-10 different methods. In these articles I will be posting my method which may be one you’ve seen before, or a combination of different ones put together. My goal here is not to tell you my way is the best, but only to show you yet another way to approach module construction.

Some methods may seem like overkill, but you have to remember, these modules are built to be moved around a lot and need to be pretty tough. I have to say though, there are things I wish I had done differently or would have been able to afford. At the time that I built my modules, I was in school full-time and had very little income, so I used lower quality materials and some experimental methods for my legs. My current modules may not have seen many operating sessions, but they have been moved around a lot in the last 4 years.

Where to Buy Materials
It is time to buy your materials for your new Free-mo module project, but you’re not sure where to go for selection and price. First, you can look at your big box stores. They usually have everything you’ll need to build a basic module. Or, if you have a local, independently owned lumber yard, they are a great source for your wood, but not so much for hardware a lot of times. Also, check your neighborhood hardware stores. Now, not a lot of them will carry a large selection of lumber, but they are a great source for your hardware. If you’re a seasoned handyman or DIY’er, you’ll probably already know these things.

What to Buy
The following is a good starting list for your materials. I have tried to include the item, average price, and store where purchased. You may find that prices differ by location, as well as selection, but what’s important are the actual items to buy.

1. 1 - 4’x4’x3/4” Birch plywood panel - No need to get a full 4’x8’ sheet for one module. - $25.00 at Lowe’s or Home Depot. But if a 4'x8' sheet is all you can find, it will run you about $35.00-$40.00.

2. 1 - 4’x8’x2” blue or pink foam insulation board – Sorry, but all I find are full sheets, so if you have some friends building modules too, maybe have them chip in and split the cost. - $25.00 at Home Depot.

3. 2 - 2”x2”x8’ furring strips or 1 - 2”x4”x8 – You’ll need these for the legs of each module you build. I’ll explain more later.- $3.00 at Lowe’s.

4. 2 - ½”x2”x36” Grade Stake or similar material – The only way I have found these are in bundles of 25, but some stores may have them individually. - $10.00 at Lowe’s.

5. 8 - ¼”-20x2.5” Carriage bolts - $0.05 each at Lowe’s. – You can get these individually or in a bulk pack.

6. 4 – ¼”-20 wing nuts - $0.15 each at Lowe’s. – You can get these individually or in a bulk pack.

7. 4 – ¼” flat washers - $0.05 each at Lowe’s. – You can get these individually or in a bulk pack.

8. 4 – ¼”-20 Blind Nut - $0.10 each at Lowe’s. – You will probably only find these in a 2 pack, but a hardware store may have them individually.

9. 1lb. box – 1 ¼” #6 General Purpose Drywall Screws – A 1 pound box is suggested because you may want to use more than I’m recommending. - $6.00 at Lowe’s, Home Depot, or a hardware store.

The Tools You Need
I know that most of you will have just about everything you need to build a module, especially if you’ve built any previous layouts. But, for those of you that are new to the hobby and my not know, or have, the tools needed to build a module, I have created a basic list of tools for you. Use this list to get the tools from the store, your workshop, or borrow from a friend. One thing to remember though, when it comes to tools, you get what you pay for, so try to buy the best quality your budget will allow. This is especially true if you plan on building more than one module, or have other DIY projects to do.

· Measuring Tape – Try to pick up at least a 12’ tape, like one that’s pocket size or even a key chain style. That’s really about all you’ll need, unless you plan on completing other projects that require something more in the 30’ range.

· Pencil – A good pencil will be needed to mark your measurements. You could also use a Sharpie, but you can’t erase a mistake with one of those.

· Speed Square or Framing Square – You’ll need one to make sure your lines and framework are square.

· Straight Edge – Find something at least 4 to 4 ½’ long that is as close to perfectly straight as you can. I use a T square most drywallers use, but you can use a good 2”x4” or maybe a piece of pipe. Just make sure it’s straight. An alternative would be to use a chalk line and snap a line between your marks.

· Circular saw – You will be using this for cutting your frame sections primarily, but it can be used to cut everything else.

· Miter Saw – You will use a miter saw to cut the legs and leg bracing to size. As mentioned, you can use a circular saw to cut these, but a miter saw may make it easier. A small 10” saw will do the job.

· Drill – Electric or cordless, it doesn’t matter, as long as you are able to use various bits in it. For about $50 you can get a Black & Decker combo kit at Wal-Mart and it has an 18 volt drill, flashlight and sometimes a stud finder. Always look for combo kits in any tool you buy. It might be cheaper in the long run for a quality tool with extras.

· Drill Bits and Screwdriver Bits – Primarily in this series you’ll be using a ¼” drill bit and a #2 Phillips screw bit, but you might want to find a decent size set for future projects.

· Table Saw – This isn’t required, but nice to use for ripping panels or sticks of lumber down to size. For some projects, this can be used instead of a circular saw and get the same or better results. They have good quality name brand saws everywhere for around $100 or more. Always look for a sale.

· Saw Horses – This can be as simple as a couple pairs of $5.00 brackets that screw to 2x4’s or as elaborate as some $60 Stanley Fat Max horses. I do a lot of construction work, so I bought the Stanley units. They are very durable with height adjustable legs, storage and places to hold lumber or pipe on the top.

· Extension Cord – They never make the cords on tools long enough, if they aren’t cordless, so pick up about a 10’ cord, or be safe with a 25’ cord.

That should be it for the tools you will need. If I think of anything else I will either update this article or add a note when the time comes.

Next Article
For our next installment, we will talk about preparing our materials. This is going to be the focus of the article and pretty much all it will entail. I might move on to assembly as well, but I don’t want to overwhelm anyone only 3 articles into the series.

Until next time, happy modeling!

John McManaman

Module Construction 101: Part 1 - Planning Your Module

Part 1 - Planning Your Module
In this session, we'll discuss:

• Thinking about what you want to build
• What prototype you want to follow
• You scenes location, season and era
• The module we will build in this series.
  

Creative Juices Are Flowing
So you've done your research on the internet, visited operating sessions of your local model railroad group and have been to dozens of train shows to figure out what kind of layout you want to build next, and you've decided on a Free-mo module, or module set. Well, welcome to the wonderful world of Free-mo!

As you probably know by now, Free-mo is the North American adaptation to the European Fremo style of modular model railroading. It gives you much more flexibility in your module design, more freedom for a prototypical track plan and gets away from typical oval or looped modular layouts you see. Free-mo is still relatively new here, so it's up to people like you to get involved, build some modules, have operating sessions and spread the word. But, while you do that, you should build yourself a module, or even a set.

Decision Time
So, what DO you want to build? One of the many questions you should ask when planning your module(s). Other questions include where is your module's scene going to be located, what is your prototype or do you feel better freelancing, what era is it set in, what time of the year, what's the terrain like, and more. Those are the most important questions to ask yourself. Some folks like a scene with a simple stretch of mainline through the countryside, while others like a set of modules depicting a mid-50's industrial area with lots of switching maneuvers.

One thing about connecting with other Free-mo modules you must remember though is that you should try to keep the scenery as close to what others have. Like avoiding a mid winter snowfall in the woods connected to an early summer field of corn. But if you are building your modules to only be set up in your home, then this wont be much of an issue.

Our Modules
For this series of articles, let's set the scene, only as a guideline, to help you envision what you want to build. So, we'll keep it simple. Let's say we like the rolling plains of the midwest, like Indiana, Illinois, or the western parts of Ohio, and your favorite time of year is the spring. You don't have tons of free space for a whole set of modules, so you choose to build just one 2'x4' module. This is a simple size, easy to work with and can be easily expanded in the future. And the significant other probably wont have a problem with you taking up 8 square feet in a spare room, basement, garage, or family room. That last one might be a stretch. Also, the module I'll be writing about may only cost around $200.00 or less, depending on where you find your materials.

Next Article
For the next article, we will discuss material selection, where to buy, and getting set up for construction. So, come back in a few days, or maybe sooner if I can't sleep, and we'll move on to part 2.

Until then, happy modeling!

Dayton, OH Passenger Railroading

Dayton, Ohio has always been a major hub for many railroads of the eastern half of the country. B&O, C&O, New York Central, Penn Central, the “Big Four” Cleveland, Cincinnati, Chicago and St. Louis Railway and other short lines that were later absorbed by the bigger railroads through mergers. Our area is also very diverse in the industries that used the railroads in the past and present. Local industries include automotive, paper, steel processing, meat processing, and lumber. One aspect of the railroad that is greatly missed is passenger service.

In downtown Dayton, there used to be a major passenger train stop. This station was called Union Station and was opened in 1900. The tracks serving the station used to run at ground level until they were elevated in 1931. Many major railroads used the original station until the mid 1960’s when it was torn down to extend a street and a replacement structure was built. In 1971 Amtrak was the last railroad to serve Dayton with only one train running, the National Limited, trains 30 and 31. In 1979, the National Limited was discontinued and passenger service to the city ended shortly after. The replacement station was left unused until 1987 when it was torn down. Now, the location of the station that had 10 tracks, only 2 remain serving CSX and the Norfolk Southern, and it is also a parking lot for Sinclair Community College, building 13.

Over the years, there have been many plans and discussions to bring passenger service back to Dayton, but it has been just that, talk. With the current economy in the situation that it is, I believe it would be many more years before we see any passenger trains returning to Dayton.