Part 3 – Material Preparation
In this session, we'll discuss:
In this session, we'll discuss:
- Material Preparation – All of the cuts, holes and measurements that you’ll need.
Material Preparation
Now that you have all of your basic materials to build the module, let’s discuss what to do with them. I will first give you the material, a quantity and/or measurement of each part needed, then describe how you should make any cuts or where to drill holes. In the sections “Holes To Be Drilled”, please refer to the diagram below the descriptions. Hole locations will be marked to correspond with the Hole Set number.
Now that you have all of your basic materials to build the module, let’s discuss what to do with them. I will first give you the material, a quantity and/or measurement of each part needed, then describe how you should make any cuts or where to drill holes. In the sections “Holes To Be Drilled”, please refer to the diagram below the descriptions. Hole locations will be marked to correspond with the Hole Set number.
· Birch Plywood Cuts: 2 - 6”x48”x0.75”, 4 - 6”x22.5”x0.75”, 2 - 4”x22.5”x0.75”, 4 – 3.125”x1.5”x0.75”, 4 – 3.125”x2.125”x0.75”
If you picked up the 4’x4’ panel, here is how you need to cut it. First, lay out your first line 6” from the edge, along one of the 4’ lengths of the panel. This will be for the sides of your frame. You’ll want to make a line at 6”, then cut, make a second line at 6” and then cut. This way you’re sure to have 6” wide sides and not lose 0.125” (1/8”) because of the kerf of your saw blade. Now you should have two pieces that measure 6”x48”x0.75”.
If you picked up the 4’x4’ panel, here is how you need to cut it. First, lay out your first line 6” from the edge, along one of the 4’ lengths of the panel. This will be for the sides of your frame. You’ll want to make a line at 6”, then cut, make a second line at 6” and then cut. This way you’re sure to have 6” wide sides and not lose 0.125” (1/8”) because of the kerf of your saw blade. Now you should have two pieces that measure 6”x48”x0.75”.
o Holes to be drilled: All holes are about 1/8” for typical general purpose drywall screws.
Hole Set 1: Lay out 3 vertical holes on each end starting from the top at 1”, 3” and 5” and 3/8” from the end. Do this for both side rails. These holes will be for attaching the module end plates.
Hole Set 2: You need to lay out points for horizontal holes for the end supports. These holes will start at 2 3/8” from the top and three holes at 1¾”, 3¾”, and 5¾” from the end.
Hole Set 3: For the leg pockets, we need to drill 2 vertical holes on each end, 2 5/8” from the ends, 3 3/4” and 5 3/4” from the top.
Hole Set 4: Last are two sets of 2 holes for the center supports on each side rail. These holes are vertical. Measure 16” from the ends and draw a vertical line starting at 2” from the top. Then mark the holes at 3” and 5”.
Hole Set 1: Lay out 3 vertical holes on each end starting from the top at 1”, 3” and 5” and 3/8” from the end. Do this for both side rails. These holes will be for attaching the module end plates.
Hole Set 2: You need to lay out points for horizontal holes for the end supports. These holes will start at 2 3/8” from the top and three holes at 1¾”, 3¾”, and 5¾” from the end.
Hole Set 3: For the leg pockets, we need to drill 2 vertical holes on each end, 2 5/8” from the ends, 3 3/4” and 5 3/4” from the top.
Hole Set 4: Last are two sets of 2 holes for the center supports on each side rail. These holes are vertical. Measure 16” from the ends and draw a vertical line starting at 2” from the top. Then mark the holes at 3” and 5”.
Now you have your sides cut and drilled, time to cut the ends and end supports. Lay out one line 6” from the edge for your next cut. Cut along the line to give you one more 6”x48”x3/4” piece. With this part, you’ll want to cut it in half, minus 1.5”, giving you a 6”x22.5”x0.75” piece. Do this with the other half as well. Repeat this step a second time so that you end up with four 6”x22.5”x0.75” pieces.
We will now cut your center supports. Along the 48” side, on the factory edge, mark a line 4” from the edge and cut, giving you one 4”x48”x0.75” length of wood. Like the ends you just made, cut this in half minus 1.5” as well and cut 1.5” off of the other half. You should have two sections that measure 4”x22.5”x0.75”.
Lastly, we need to cut some small rectangular pieces for the leg pockets. Continue with this step if you decide not to use some method to have the legs fold underneath the module. With your left over part of the panel, you will need to cut out four 3.125”x1.5”x0.75” pieces and four 3.125”x2.125”x0.75” pieces. This will give you one of each for each corner.
Keep the scraps you have left over because we may use them for extra support in the future.
· Cutting the Legs and Cross Braces: 4 – 1.5”x1.5”x your desired length, 2 – ½”x2”22 ½”.
Let’s move on to preparing our legs. This step will be pretty simple and won’t take much time at all.
If you purchased a 2”x4”x8’ to make your legs, here is how you cut it down. To start, since most modules are only 30” to 50” to the top of the rail head, you can start by cutting the 2x4 in half at 48”. Then rip the two pieces down the middle, at 1 ½”. After you make your cuts, you will have 4 legs. You should be left with a couple strips ½”x1½”x48”. Keep these as you will be able to use them for bracing or support on your module.
If you purchased two 1½”x1½”x8’ furring strips, then you will simply cut the strips in half at first or to a length that will work for your desired module height.
The final length of your legs is determined by your modular organizations standards. But, as a simple rule to cut your legs, you’ll want to take your rail height and subtract the 2” for foam board thickness, ½”+/- for track and roadbed thickness (depends on brand of track and roadbed), ¾” for the horizontal end bracing, and about ½” for leveler height adjustment. So for example, if you are building to Free-mo standards of 50” rail height, you will cut your legs to 46¼”.
The cross braces are cut from 36” grade stakes. This is a simple cut, really. From the straight end, measure 22 ½” and cut the pointed end off.
Let’s move on to preparing our legs. This step will be pretty simple and won’t take much time at all.
If you purchased a 2”x4”x8’ to make your legs, here is how you cut it down. To start, since most modules are only 30” to 50” to the top of the rail head, you can start by cutting the 2x4 in half at 48”. Then rip the two pieces down the middle, at 1 ½”. After you make your cuts, you will have 4 legs. You should be left with a couple strips ½”x1½”x48”. Keep these as you will be able to use them for bracing or support on your module.
If you purchased two 1½”x1½”x8’ furring strips, then you will simply cut the strips in half at first or to a length that will work for your desired module height.
The final length of your legs is determined by your modular organizations standards. But, as a simple rule to cut your legs, you’ll want to take your rail height and subtract the 2” for foam board thickness, ½”+/- for track and roadbed thickness (depends on brand of track and roadbed), ¾” for the horizontal end bracing, and about ½” for leveler height adjustment. So for example, if you are building to Free-mo standards of 50” rail height, you will cut your legs to 46¼”.
The cross braces are cut from 36” grade stakes. This is a simple cut, really. From the straight end, measure 22 ½” and cut the pointed end off.
o Holes to be drilled:
The holes to be drilled in the legs are simple. Your first hole is to be drilled in the end of the leg directly in the center, 3/8”x2¼” . This hole will be for a ¼”-20 T-nut and either a 2”x¼”-20 carriage bolt, or a rubber table leg adjuster with the same thread and as close to the same length as possible.
Your second hole to be drilled will be a ¼” hole 10” from the bottom of the leg for a cross brace.
And finally, you’ll want to drill a ¼” hole in the cross braces at ¾” from each end.
The holes to be drilled in the legs are simple. Your first hole is to be drilled in the end of the leg directly in the center, 3/8”x2¼” . This hole will be for a ¼”-20 T-nut and either a 2”x¼”-20 carriage bolt, or a rubber table leg adjuster with the same thread and as close to the same length as possible.
Your second hole to be drilled will be a ¼” hole 10” from the bottom of the leg for a cross brace.
And finally, you’ll want to drill a ¼” hole in the cross braces at ¾” from each end.
· Cutting the Foam Board:
Your foam board probably came as a 4’x8’ sheet, so it will need to be cut to fit your frame. When cutting your foam, keep in mind the ¾” you need to allow for on all 4 sides. Your module frame outside dimensions will be 24”x48”, so you will need to cut your foam to 22½”x46½” so it will fit snugly inside the frame and will rest on top of the end support braces we cut in the beginning.
Your foam board probably came as a 4’x8’ sheet, so it will need to be cut to fit your frame. When cutting your foam, keep in mind the ¾” you need to allow for on all 4 sides. Your module frame outside dimensions will be 24”x48”, so you will need to cut your foam to 22½”x46½” so it will fit snugly inside the frame and will rest on top of the end support braces we cut in the beginning.
This about covers all of your cuts and holes you need to drill. I’ve tried to be as specific as possible in my directions, but if you have a question, please post a comment here or email me and I will help you along.
In the next session, we will get to the good part, assembly. If all of your parts are cut to the correct dimensions and all of your holes are drilled in the correct locations, you should have your module assembled in about 30-45 minutes or less.
Good luck with your cuts and drilling. Happy modeling!
JohnIn the next session, we will get to the good part, assembly. If all of your parts are cut to the correct dimensions and all of your holes are drilled in the correct locations, you should have your module assembled in about 30-45 minutes or less.
Good luck with your cuts and drilling. Happy modeling!
